Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
